Robinson Bluff April 2024

Jeff Setchfield on Fight or Flight 5.10d in the Goblin Grotto at Robinson Bluff.

Photo credit on all images: Michael Shepherd Jordan

In April I finally got the chance to get outside to climb on real rock in 2024. It was a late start to the midwest climbing season for me, but I’m grateful the regular climbing crew made the trip down to Robinson Bluff on a perfect Spring Missouri day.

Fight or Flight 5.10d

Our days started off on the Goblin Grotto wall climbing Fight or Flight 5.10d. 5.10d is a pretty stout warm-up for me, but Jeff and Ryan made it look easy floating up the 120’ route into the clouds. I needed one take, and took one fall, but I made it to the top.

Jeff Setchfield on Fight or Flight 5.10d in the Goblin Grotto at Robinson Bluff.

Ryan Wittich belaying Jeff and then climbing Fight or Flight 5.10d in the Goblin Grotto at Robinson Bluff.

Shelob’s Lair 5.9

Dr. Marcus and his son Jonah joined the crew for the day. Jace and I had climbed once with them at Pere Marquette in Illinois in 2023, back when Jonah was climbing in sneakers. To my shock and amazement, Jonah not only has climbing shoes, but he’s leading routes! Like 5.10+ routes. Awesome and humbling.

Dr. Marcus with Jace Lane on belay climbing Shelob’s Lair 5.9 in the Goblin Grotto at Robinson Bluff.

Picasso Wall

After hanging with the Goblins we felt a little artistic and headed over to the Picasso Wall, which is our typical destination at Robinson Bluff. The aptly named multi-colored wall features 18 routes, all roughly 60 feet tall, ranging in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.12d. The easier routes are at the ends of the wall with the more difficult routes congregating in the center. The climbing is pretty manageable for the first 50 feet, but then a small roof bulge create a crux for nearly all the routes.

Redtail 5.10d

Jonah leading Redtail 5.10d on the Picasso Wall at Robinson Bluff. Dr. Marcus on belay.

Drifter 5.11a/b

Ryan Wittich climbs Drifter 5.11a/b on the Picasso Wall at Robinson Bluff.

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Jaybird 5.11d at Ferne Clyffe with Ryan Wittich