My First Outdoor Climb!!! The Sophomore 5.9 at Jackson Falls
The Sophomore 5.9 at Jackson Falls Illinois
I went on my first outdoor climbing experience at Jackson Falls in the Shawnee National Forest in Southern Illinois. This route is The Sophomore which is rated a 5.9. My rock climbing journey began in February 2022 and the goal has always been to get outside on real rock. After 10 months of climbing at the gym roughly 2 days a week, top rope certification, lead rope certification, and making new climbing friends I was able to go rock climbing outside for the first time. It was an amazing first experience. And bonus! I even sent the route.
Route Review: The Sophomore 5.9
Admittedly, I now have one day of outdoor rock climbing experience, and on that day I only climbed 4 routes. So, what is climbing The Sophomore on the Exam Wall at Jackson Falls like? In terms of grade, I think it’s a solid 5.9. It’s very juggy and has lots of good feet up the route.
I climbed this as a toprope, my climbing partner Jeff having lead the route to set the ropes. There is a large run-out, about 15 feet, between the 2nd and 3rd bolts which Jeff found to be a little nerve-wracking, but there are solid jugs throughout that section so for an experienced lead climber it’s very achievable. There are also spots to place additional protection in the run-out if desired.
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Climbing at Jackson Falls in Southern Illinois
Jackson Falls has over 541 total climbs, the most in Illinois. There are sport routes, trad routes, topropes, boulders, slabs, slopers, roofs, pockets, and more with grades for all skill levels of climbers making it a truly awesome climbing destination. Getting to Jackson Falls from St. Louis is about a 3 hour drive, but well worth it. The majority of routes sit in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. I climbed and sent a 5.10a, Earthbound Misfit, but fell short of making to the top of the classic route Psychotherapy a 5.10b, both in The Gallery section of Jackson Falls.
My Climbing Gear
Since all of my climbing has been in the gym all the gear for climbing outside was brought by my climbing partners for the day. If you’re thinking about getting into climbing (I HIGHLY recommended) the gear I have has been great for me as a beginning climber.
Harness - Edelrid Moe Harness - REI $64.95
Shoes - evolve Defy - $99.00
Chalk Bag - Organic Climbing Chalk Bag - REI $25.00
Belay Device - Petzl GriGri - REI $99.95
Carabiner & ATC - Black Diamond Belay Device Package - REI $34.95
Helmet - Petzl Boreo - REI $59.95
Climbing Clothes
Jacket - Patagonia Nano Puff Insulated Hoodie
Base Layer - REI Co-op Midweight Base Layer Half-Zip Top
Shirt - REI Co-op Sahara T-Shirt
Pants - KUHL Renegade Rock Pants
Underwear - REI Co-op Everyday Boxer Briefs
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